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If you’ve ever imagined visiting Hawaii, you’ve probably pictured beaches packed with tourists, endless hotels, and crowds around every photo spot. But when my family and I spent nine days on Hawaii’s Big Island, we found something completely different, something slower, more raw, and a lot more personal.
We stayed in Kailua-Kona, up on the mountainside, waking up every morning to a view of the ocean stretching far beyond the horizon, fishing boats out on the early morning. We stayed in an Airbnb (not a hotel), and as always I highly recommend going this route. Waking up in a real home instead of a generic hotel room made the whole trip feel more rooted, more local, and more like we were truly there.
First Stop: Sunset at Papa Kona’s
After landing and getting settled, we grabbed dinner at Papa Kona’s, a waterfront restaurant with a little bit of everything on the menu. I played it safe with a burger that first night, but the highlight wasn’t the food, it was the sunset. One of the first photos I took on this trip ended up being one of my favorites: golden skies stretching over the water as the island seemed to welcome us in.
Donuts, Sea Turtles, and the Best Italian Food of My Life
The next morning, we started our day hunting down a tiny donut shop called Paradise Bakery, tucked away in a food court. The man working there explained every flavor to us in detail. I can’t remember which one I picked, but I do remember how soft and creamy it was, definitely worth the visit.
Later, we drove to a beach where the water was so clear you could see all the way to the bottom. A sea turtle even swam right past us, which felt like something out of a dream.
After the beach, we stumbled across Cipriano’s, small Italian restaurant tucked away from the main road. It ended up being the best Italian food I’ve ever had. We loved it so much that we went back again on our last night. The owner was so kind, making the whole experience even better. If you go to the Big Island, this is one stop you cannot skip.
(Was too hungry to take a picture of anything but desert, this is their chocolate cake.)
Local Finds at Kona’s Farmers Market
On one of our slower days, we stopped by Kona’s Farmers Market. I picked up a couple of small trinkets, but the real highlight was the fruit, especially the pineapple. I always thought people exaggerated when they said fruit tasted better when grown in certain places. But after biting into that pineapple, I understood. It was unbelievably sweet, juicy, and fresh, nothing like what I’d had back home.
Something to note as well is I went home with two suitcases instead of one because of the amount of things I was taking back home, so I recommend taking a smaller extra suitcase with you to hold all your goodies, plus that one comes with an extra boarding bag and is still very affordable for holding those items you need immediate access to.
Road Trip to Waimea, Pololū Valley, and Waipiʻo Valley
We kicked off another big day by driving north to Waimea Coffee Company. The coffee and breakfast were both fantastic, definitely worth stopping in if you’re headed that way.
We kept driving higher and higher into the mountains until our ears were popping from the elevation. Finally, we reached:
Pololū Valley
Waipiʻo Valley
Both views were jaw-dropping. If you make this drive, or any long drive on the Big Island (since there is so much to see), pack a car charger. Assuming you'll rent a car, don't rely on there being a port to charge your phone like your own car, at least not enough for multiple people (we constantly ran into this problem).
We ended the day back in Waimea at The Fish & The Hog, where my family and I split some of the best nachos I’ve ever had. (There's a lot of best's on this trip.)
Touring Greenwell Farms & A Sunset Dinner on the Water
Another favorite moment was our tour of Greenwell Farms, where we learned all about how Kona coffee is grown and made. If you’re a coffee lover, this is a must-do. The tour is outside, and believe me, Hawaii is hot. Please pack a handheld fan and some good sunscreen.
That evening, we had dinner at On the Rocks, right by the shoreline. A live band played while a hula dancer performed. The combination of the ocean breeze, music, and dancing made the night feel like a postcard come to life.
Black Sand Beaches & Volcano National Park
One of the most unforgettable days was our trip to Volcano National Park. On the way, we visited a black sand beach, where the dark sand and bright ocean created a view I’ll never forget.
Make sure to get water shoes, because trust me, the Big Island has white sand, black sand, and regular beaches, so you'll be exploring a lot near water, and these shoes made it easier for everyone in my family.
We had lunch at Uncle George’s Lounge inside the park before continuing our adventure. Very good looking pizza.
Driving through the park felt like traveling through different worlds. The Big Island actually holds 10 of the world’s 14 recognized climate zones, and you can feel the difference as you move through them. We saw craters, walked through dried lava fields, and ended the drive at the Hōlei Sea Arch on the coast.
ATV Riding & a Dinner Cruise
One of the highlights of the entire trip was ATV riding at Aloha Adventure Farm. The tour guides were so kind and made learning to ride fun and easy. It was such a unique way to explore the landscape while learning more about Hawaiian culture.
Later that evening, we boarded a Body Glove dinner cruise. We learned about the island’s history, culture, and landscapes as we watched the coastline from the water.
Waterfalls, Smoothies, and Ice Cream in Hilo
On our final full day, we headed to Hilo to explore the island’s waterfalls. We started at:
Rainbow Falls
Then we took the scenic route toward Akaka Falls State Park.
Along the way, we stopped at What’s Shaken, a small stand known for its smoothies, shakes, and fresh coconuts. They’ll even cut the top off and stick a straw in it for you, super refreshing after all the driving.
The trail at Akaka Falls was just as beautiful as the waterfall itself, filled with lush greenery and tropical sounds.
Before heading back, we made one final stop at Nectar Cafe, a sleek little ice cream spot in Hilo. The vibe was clean and modern, and the ice cream was the perfect way to wrap up our day.
Final Thoughts
This trip showed me a whole new side of Hawaii, one that felt quieter, more personal, and more connected to the land than I ever expected. If I could describe the two sides of Hawaii in songs, these are the two I'd choose:
- “Misses” by Dominic Fike, the upbeat, tropical energy of the island
- “Forwards Beckon Rebound” by Adrianne Lenker, the quiet, raw, and intimate parts that I’ll never forget
If you’ve only ever imagined Hawaii as one big tourist resort, let me tell you, there’s so much more waiting for you on the Big Island.
And I hope you get to experience every bit of it like I did.